The World According to Demna

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According to Balenciaga’s creative director Demna Gvasalia, “money is the ultimate fetiche.” With its power for creation, destruction, and control, money breeds both our highest aspirations and deepest fears. At Balenciaga’s recent show inside the New York Stock Exchange, impending corruption has never felt so alluring. 

If money is influence, then Demna, who was listed on Time’s 2022 100 Most Influential People, is its personification. Garnering show attendees such as, Kanye West, Megan Thee Stallion, and Anna Wintour, the man’s power lies within his knack for disruption. 

The Vetements co-founder projected Balenciaga’s logo in Madison Square Park, Union Square, and other iconic Manhattan landmarks leading up to the show. Invitations arrived in unassuming, crumpled up paper bags. Inside those bags were stacks of faux Balenciaga-branded $100 bills. No stranger to unconventional greetings, Demna previously sent show invitations in the form of nonoperational iPhone 6s’s, which, much like fake money, is useless. 

“Wall Street” brings to mind many things, but relaxation certainly isn’t one of them. Commencing to the sound of the NYSE’s opening bell, techno music blared as guests watched from tall backless stools. Every detail was intentionally unsettling: screens of numbers and icons flashed while models wearing gimpish latex unitards navigated through the trading floor. A metaphor for capitalism, the unforgiving undergarments paired with layers upon layers of voluminous fabric created a feeling of restriction. 

Looks from the first part of the show came from Balenciaga’s new line, Garde-Robe. Although Balenciaga’s athletic wear has seen great commercial success, Garde-Robe is Demna’s segue into tailoring. Revealing not a centimeter of skin, the opening look was a double breasted blazer dress with padded shoulders, an oversized bow, sunglasses, and obviously, a latex unitard. Inspired by the ‘80s, the mostly black collection features gargantuan suits, floor-sweeping trenches, and boxy briefcases. Again getting at the relentless nature of capitalism, the workwear imagery says that we are slaves to our work. 

While Garde-Robe critiques capitalism, part two of the collection, an already available to purchase collaboration with Adidas, embraces it. Breaking from Garde-Robe’s subdued color palette, the latter looks incorporated pops of color. One notable ensemble included baggy jeans, oversized logo hoodie, branded backpack, and neon green pigtails peaking out from under a black latex suit. Its dramatic proportions made what would have otherwise been a standard “going to school” outfit, undeniably Balenciaga. 

Much like our current economy, everything in Balenciaga’s Spring 2023 collection appears inflated. Full of volume, padding, and with the models’ faces obscured— mystery. Clown shoes of dramatic proportions offset massive duffels and track suits that seemed about three sizes too big. Demna’s ability to distort the human frame and upend familiar silhouettes is perhaps his most defining characteristic as a designer. You need not know it’s Balenciaga per say to recognize that whatever exactly you’re looking at, is special. It is meant to take up space. It is meant to be seen. 

Held a setting almost synonymous with wealth and ambition, Balenciaga’s Spring 2023 show was as intellectually compelling as it was visually. Demna once defined fashion as “a mirror, a reflection of what’s going on around us,” and if this is correct, then Balenciaga’s Spring 2023 collection was fashion through and through.     

Beyoncé Knowles, a cultural phenomenon herself, made headlines this week with her new album, Renaissance, debuting at No. 1 on Billboard’s Top 200. Although the singer is no stranger to chart-topping records, this is the first time any woman has accomplished the feat in music history.

The highly anticipated album was released on July 29th, six years post-Lemonade. Despite the wait, Renaissance, act one of a three-part project, was just the nostalgic LP Beyoncé’s fans could have hoped for.

The word “renaissance” refers to a revival, a renewed interest in something.

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The album’s upbeat disco sound and retro imagery drew inspiration from previous decades. In physical copies alone, Renaissance is now the top-selling hip-hop or R&B vinyl created by a woman since 1991, resurrecting an otherwise diminishing musical medium.

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Even the line, “this Telfar bag imported,” from the album’s track, “Summer Renaissance,” reinvigorated interest in the Telfar bag, garnering an 85% increase in views on The RealReal as of last Saturday.

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In an Instagram post caption, Beyoncé explained that the album was an outlet for exploration and experimentation. Recorded during the pandemic, the songs were a space for the singer to find solace in an ever-changing and hostile world. Renaissance is “a place to be free of perfectionism and overthinking. A place to scream, release, feel freedom.” Beyoncé hopes her music will make her listeners feel “unique, strong, and sexy.”

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The record’s cover art, a reference to Bianca Jagger’s 1977 horseback entrance to Studio 54, depicts Beyoncé sitting atop a blurred silver holographic horse and saddle. The slightly veiled features starkly contrast the clearly defined image of the artist sitting upon them. Beyoncé’s silver-heeled sandals rest in similarly chromatic stirrups while our focus is drawn toward the star’s long wavy hair, red lipstick, and commanding gaze.

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The remaining Renaissance album art is a series of striking photographs depicting the queen herself wearing haute couture in retro settings— and a lot more chrome.

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Presumably inspired by 60’s Space Age fashion, the star is ethereal in a beehive hairdo and plunging metallic Mugler breastplate. With the ensemble’s dramatic points extending above her shoulders and crystal glass in hand, the image says, not only is Beyoncé timeless, she is the future.

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On August 5th, a week after the album’s debut, the star released a “Break My Soul” remix created by herself and legendary pop star, Madonna. A promo photo of the pair features Beyoncé wearing a Schiaparelli Haute Couture cone bra, paying tribute to the Jean Paul Gaultier version worn by Madonna during her 1990 Blond Ambition tour. The collaboration, “The Queens Remix,” gets at their tremendous mutual influence on popular culture.

An exploratory renaissance of music, fashion, and culture, Beyoncé’s seventh studio album gave modern meaning to the term. Already a living legacy, one can only imagine what the following two parts of “Renaissance” will have in store. 

Layered leather, velvet mini dresses, and wine colored lipstick— Winona Ryder is the quintessential ‘90s cool girl.

The two-time Academy Award winning actress established herself as a grunge icon throughout the decade. Beyond merely a fashion aesthetic, Ryder’s roles in films such as Heathers (1988), Beetlejuice (1988), and more recently, Stranger Things season 4, prove the actress’ longstanding adoration for the dark side.

While Ryder’s moto jackets became a cultural mainstay, Marc Jacobs changed fashion forever with his grunge-inspired Spring 1993 collection for Perry Ellis.

Grunge was the antithesis of the clean-cut, professional look that characterized both the Perry Ellis brand and fashion more generally at the time. Informed by an emerging subculture of alternative music, subversion, and teen angst, Jacobs was less interested in society’s elite and instead focused on what the youth was actually wearing. Reconstructing streetwear as high fashion, the designer was the first ever to put grunge on the runway. Jacobs paired his looks with Converse and Dr. Martens, juxtaposed luxury with flannel, and mixed dainty with severe. The designer has maintained a similar ethos with Heaven, a line that features imagery from iconic '90s films, such as The Virgin Suicides and E.T.

Considering Ryder’s and Jacobs’ enduring commitment to grunge and all things ‘90s, their recent collaboration for the new J Marc Shoulder Bag feels particularly harmonious. With the bag’s June 1st release date trailing only a few days behind that of Stranger Things season 4, its debut is mutualistic for both creatives.

First partnering with Jacobs in 2003, the actress is a familiar muse for the designer. Their two decade long friendship began after Ryder was found guilty of shoplifting a Marc Jacobs jumper, among other luxury items, from Saks Fifth Avenue in Beverly Hills. The star wore a knee length sweater dress from Marc Jacobs’ Fall/Winter 2001 collection to her sentencing, catching the attention of the designer himself. Struck by Ryder's beauty and genuine interest in his brand, Jacobs cast the actress in his Spring 2003 ad campaign. Photographs from the spread depict a wide-eyed Ryder staring directly into the camera, a tongue-in-cheek reference to the shoplifting scandal.

Ryder appeared in ads for Jacobs’ Fall/Winter 2015 collection, and again as the face of Marc Jacobs Beauty in 2016. The designer, still captivated by Ryder today, features the actress wearing the J bag slung crossbody across her chest for his most recent campaign. A nod to their shared affinity for past eras, the accessory is styled throughout multiple looks with archival runway pieces.

Maintaining the essence of grunge, the J bag’s three way wear is utilitarian— it can be worn with its chain shoulder strap, webbed crossbody strap, or without straps altogether as a clutch. Offering something for everyone, the smooth leather bag can be purchased in a variety of colors, ranging from vibrant candy tones to neutrals.

With her ample eyeliner and choppy fringe still grazing her face, some things never change. Winona Ryder’s youthful presence makes her the ideal face of this versatile accessory.

 The Tribeca Film Festival has a reputation for being multi-faceted. While films are of course the central focus, the festival enhances its cinematic experience with talks, music, games, art, and immersive programming. A mix of first-time filmmakers and established industry favorites, the festival offers a unique platform for independent artists— and some top-notch outfits.

The highly anticipated premiere of Machine Gun Kelly’s Taurus, a film about a promising yet troubled rockstar, was held on June 9th at the Upper West Side’s Beacon Theatre. The musician’s bright pink hair starkly contrasted his white crisply tailored suit with sparkling embellishments. Nodding to the plight of his semi-fictional character, Kelly completed the look with an oversized syringe earring. The hue of the symbolic piece’s faux blood complimented the red Sportmax dress worn by his fiancé, Meghan Fox.

Taylor Swift’s impromptu acoustic performance on June 11th following the premiere of her short film, All Too Well, was a pleasant surprise for us all. The eleven-time Grammy award-winning singer wore a pinstripe Max Mara vest suit for the occasion. Swift completed the look with a statement lip and pair of loafer heels, both in her signature shade of red. Among her many captivated fans were friends Blake Lively and Ryan Reynolds who sung and clapped along in support. Prior to breaking out her guitar, Swift joined friend and director, Mike Mills, along with her film’s leading actors, Sadie Sink and Dylan O’Brien, for a panel discussion. Swift’s effervescence for directing the project shone through, calling it a “natural extension” of her primary love for writing and storytelling. It was “such a fulfilling experience,” the artist revealed. 

Chanel hosted its annual Tribeca Festival Artists' Dinner on June 13th at Balthazar in downtown NYC. Prestigious guests, all wearing Chanel, gathered inside the iconic restaurant to honor ten artists who have contributed their work to the festival’s films. It was a night of artists supporting artists, which included the likes of Andrew Garfield, Christy Turlington, and co-founder of Tribeca Enterprises, Robert De Niro. 

Witney Peak, Gossip Girl star and Chanel brand ambassador, graced the dinner wearing a houndstooth blazer cinched by a dazzling rhinestone buckle belt. Her dainty drop pendant necklace and matching earrings offered an additional touch of Chanel’s emblematic elegance. Penélope Cruz, who starred as Lola Cuevas in the festival’s premiere of Official Competition, a Spanish-language comedy film, was another standout of the night. The actress was glowing in her floor length magenta silk jacquard gown from the house’s fall 2022 ready-to-wear collection. Cruz paired the show-stopping dress with a matching magenta Chanel quilted purse and delicate gold hoop earrings. 

The 21st annual Tribeca Festival came to a close on June 16th with the reveal of this year’s competition winners. It’s no secret that film is a male-dominated industry, but this year was a major win for the ladies. Good Girl Jane and The Cave of Adullam, directed by Sarah Elizabeth Mintz and Laura Checkoway, respectively, were two of only three films winning top honors in U.S. Narrative, International Narrative, and Documentary Competitions.

A surprise concert, milestones for female directors, and abundant Chanel— what more could we ask for? The 2022 Tribeca Film festival was one to remember. 

Billowing Oxford shirts, scenic ocean views, and the smell of old-money— the new trend sweeping over TikTok reflects a coastal lifestyle of causal opulence. While not all of us can afford a vacation home in the Hamptons, you too can pull off the “coastal grandmother” aesthetic this summer. 

The style, typically represented by wealthy, older women, was coined as “coastal grandmother” by Californian Tiktoker, Lex Nicoletta this past year. 

The symbolic coastal grandmother sits in her chaise longe with a glass of chardonnay in hand. Dainty gold heirloom jewelry peaks out ever so slightly under her oversized linen button down (shoes are optional). She sits peacefully overlooking her local ocean view. As the breeze settles in and the sun begins to set, the coastal grandmother wraps herself in a cashmere throw. Her home, much like her clothing, is light and effortless. 

TikTok’s fascination with the coastal grandmother’s subtle sophistication has created a more contemporary (and attainable) version this aesthetic. Think less The Great Gatbsy and more Big Little Lies, a more realistic drama featuring aptly sandy foyers. 

For an emerging generation of young adults, the coastal grandmother aesthetic is aspirational, offering the the hope of a more tranquil and luxurious future.  The new coastal grandmother wears thrifted linens and faux pearls. On their windowsill rests a sandalwood candle burning alongside a vase of self-trimmed hydrangeas from Trader Joes (but hopefully a Fifth Avenue florist someday).

You don’t need grandchildren nor generational wealth to embody this aesthetic. It is not simply a fashion trend, but a lifestyle oriented toward a leisurely elegant end.

TikTok’s coastal grandmother is any individual who lives in the present, savors life, and appreciates the ease of an oversized button down.

With films and red carpet looks becoming instant classics, Cannes’ 75th Film Festival was as captivating an affair as we could have hoped. Highly anticipated films Armageddon Time and Top Gun: Maverick dawned the silver screen while Anne Hathaway and Bella Hadid graced the red carpet in respective Armani Privé and Versace gowns.

This year, the only thing more compelling than the glitzy premieres and their prestigious guest lists, were the dinner parties.  

Chopard, a lover of the cinema and longtime festival sponsor, hosted its annual Trophée dinner at the Carlton Hotel Beach Club to celebrate promising actors on their way to forging illustrious careers. First awarded in 2001, the Trophée Chopard helps its recipients attain international exposure as they establish themselves within the film industry. 

Esteemed actress and Chopard ‘Ambassadress,’ Julia Roberts, presented this year’s awards to rising stars Sheila Atim and Jack Lowden. Roberts looked timelessly chic in a Dior blazer-skirt combination, dressed in all black from head to toe. Impossible to miss was the black-and-white diamond rose brooch resting upon her lapel from Chopard’s “I Love Cinema” collection. In the spirit of Cannes, this piece is just one of 75 created by the watch and jewelry marker, inspired by legendary films.  

Kering hosted its annual Women in Motion Dinner at the Place de la Castre—a castle and former monks’ monastery overlooking the city of Cannes. Its scenic views served as the backdrop to honor the winner of this year’s Women in Motion Award, Viola Davis. The actress looked radiant in a bright green suit by Alexander McQueen, complete with the house’s ‘Punk’ pumps and a matching ‘The Four Ring’ chained bag to boot.  

With previous honorees including acclaimed actresses like Jane Fonda and Isabelle Huppert, the Women in Motion Award celebrates the work of exceptional women within the world of film. While Davis’ monochromatic ensemble could have stolen the show on its own, it was her moving acceptance speech that evoked a standing ovation. 

Davis told a captivated audience that her win reflects a shift toward a new narrative, one that elevates “storytelling for people of color.” Davis emphasized a message of female empowerment, explaining, “I want my ceiling to be their floor.” For Davis, her win doesn’t represent the pinnacle of Black excellence, but rather, a benchmark, exemplifying what can both be attained and surpassed by all women of color.  

These dinners highlight the role of film in shaping our perceptions of beauty and intrigue. Cinematic content of the past and present informs innovative fashion while the films themselves serve as a launchpad for aspiring actors. As Davis remarked, films forge opportunities toward greater female minority representation within today’s media. 

Great cinemas can exist without great fashion, but events like these prove their ability to elevate one another. Film and fashion are intrinsically connected, and at Cannes, they are a match made in heaven.